DIY Fix for Hog Wire Fence Gaps on Sloped Yards

My new hog wire fence looked beautiful from the street. Modern, clean lines, exactly the aesthetic I wanted. Then I walked around back where my yard slopes down about 4 feet and discovered gaps under the fence large enough for my neighbor’s dog to walk through standing up.

The fence installer said gaps on slopes are normal with hog wire and quoted me $800 to come back and “fix it properly.” I’d already paid $3,200 for the fence installation. Spending another $800 on gaps he should have prevented initially felt like getting robbed twice.

I fixed all the gaps myself over two weekends for $110 in materials from Home Depot. Took some problem-solving and sweat, but now my fence is completely secure. My neighbor’s dog stays in his yard, and my yard actually looks finished instead of half-done.

Here’s exactly how to fix hog wire fence gaps on sloped terrain without hiring contractors or spending hundreds. You’ll learn why slopes create gaps in the first place, four different methods for filling those gaps depending on slope severity, materials that work versus materials that fail, and installation techniques that make repairs look intentional instead of patched together. Whether your slope is gentle or steep, one of these methods will secure your fence properly.

Why Hog Wire Fences Gap on Slopes (Understanding the Problem)

Hog wire fencing comes in flat 4-foot or 5-foot panels. When you install these flat panels along a slope, the bottom edge of the fence follows a diagonal line while the ground follows a different angle. This creates triangular gaps where the fence doesn’t meet the ground.

The steeper your slope, the larger your gaps become. A gentle 1-2 foot elevation change might create 3-4 inch gaps. A steep 5-foot drop can create gaps 10-12 inches tall at the widest point.

My yard slopes approximately 4 feet over 40 feet of fence length. This created gaps ranging from 2 inches at the shallow end to 9 inches at the steepest section. Small animals could squeeze through the small gaps. Large dogs could walk through the big ones.

Most fence installers know this will happen but don’t mention it until after installation. Some will fix it if you complain. Others, like mine, will happily charge extra to correct their incomplete work.

The good news is gaps are fixable with DIY methods that cost a fraction of professional repairs. You just need the right approach for your specific slope situation.

Method 1: Cut and Bend the Hog Wire Panel (For Gaps Under 4 Inches)

This was my first attempt and it worked perfectly on the sections with smaller gaps. I cut the bottom 6 inches of hog wire horizontally, bent those wires down to follow the ground contour, and secured them with landscape staples.

Materials needed:

• Wire cutters or bolt cutters
• Heavy-duty landscape staples (50 pack, $12)
• Work gloves
• Hammer or rubber mallet

Step-by-step process:

1. Mark a horizontal cut line 6 inches up from the bottom of your hog wire where gaps exist. Use chalk or tape to keep the line straight across multiple panels.
2. Cut all the vertical wires along that line using wire cutters. Cut from the back side so any sharp wire ends face away from your yard. This took me about 15 minutes per 8-foot section.
3. Carefully bend the bottom 6-inch section of wire downward to follow the ground contour. The wire should lay flat against the slope. Wear gloves because wire ends are sharp.
4. Secure the bent wire to the ground using landscape staples every 12 inches. Drive staples through wire openings into the soil. The staples hold the wire flat against the slope and prevent animals from pushing underneath.
5. If wire ends stick up awkwardly, bend them back toward the fence or clip them shorter with wire cutters.

Cost for 40 feet of fence: Approximately $12 for landscape staples (I already owned wire cutters).

Pros:

• Cheapest solution available
• Uses existing fence material
• Looks relatively natural once complete
• Works well on gentle to moderate slopes
• Maintains the hog wire aesthetic

Cons:

• Only works for gaps under 4 inches
• Wire can work loose over time if not secured well
• Cutting wire is tedious and sharp wire is dangerous
• May not hold up to aggressive dogs digging

Best for: Sections with small gaps on gentle slopes, areas where aesthetics matter more than maximum security, temporary solutions while planning permanent fixes.

I used this method on about 20 feet of my fence where gaps were 2-4 inches. Two years later, it’s still holding perfectly. The bent wire has settled into the ground somewhat and looks completely intentional.

Method 2: Add a Rot Board or Ground Board (For Any Gap Size)

This became my go-to solution for the sections with larger gaps. I attached pressure-treated 2×6 boards horizontally along the bottom of the fence, filling the gap between the hog wire and the ground.

Materials needed:

• Pressure-treated 2×6 boards (8-foot lengths, $12 each)
• Exterior deck screws (3-inch, $8 per box)
• Saw (circular saw or hand saw)
• Drill with screw bit
• Measuring tape
• Level

Step-by-step process:

1. Measure each section where gaps exist. The board needs to be tall enough to fill the gap at its deepest point while sitting on the ground.
2. Cut pressure-treated 2×6 boards to length. For my 8-foot fence sections, I used full 8-foot boards. A 2×6 is actually 5.5 inches tall, which filled my largest gaps with a bit of overlap with the hog wire.
3. Position the board on the ground against your fence posts. The bottom should sit on the ground, and the top should overlap with the bottom of your hog wire by at least 1 inch.
4. Check that the board follows the ground contour. On steep sections, you might need to trim the top edge of the board at an angle so it matches the slope. This took some trial and error on my steepest sections.
5. Attach the board to your fence posts using 3-inch exterior deck screws. I used three screws per post connection—top, middle, and bottom. Make sure screws go into the post, not just the hog wire.
6. If your fence posts are spaced far apart (more than 8 feet), add a horizontal 2×4 support between posts to prevent the rot board from bowing outward in the middle.

Cost for 40 feet of fence: Approximately $60 for five 8-foot boards plus $8 for screws = $68 total.

Pros:

• Works for any gap size from tiny to massive
• Very secure and animal-proof
• Pressure-treated wood lasts 15-20 years
• Adds visual weight to fence bottom
• Provides attachment point for future modifications
• Can paint or stain to match fence posts

Cons:

• More expensive than bending wire method
• Visible wooden board changes fence aesthetic
• Requires cutting and fitting on sloped sections
• Some people don’t like the wood-and-wire mixed look

Best for: Larger gaps over 4 inches, maximum security requirements, slopes where cutting and bending wire won’t reach ground, permanent solutions that last decades.

I used this method for about 20 feet of my steepest slope section. The rot boards filled gaps ranging from 6 to 9 inches perfectly. I painted them black to match my fence posts, and they’ve blended in surprisingly well.

Two years later, the boards show no rot or deterioration. I expect them to last at least 15 years before needing replacement.

Method 3: Bury the Bottom Edge (For Moderate Slopes and Digging Prevention)

If you have concerns about dogs digging under your fence or want the most secure solution, burying the bottom 6-8 inches of hog wire into a trench works brilliantly.

This is the most labor-intensive solution but creates an impenetrable barrier. No animal is getting under fencing that’s buried 6 inches deep.

Materials needed:

• Flat shovel
• Pickaxe (for hard or rocky soil)
• Landscape staples (optional)
• Backfill gravel or soil

Step-by-step process:

1. Dig a trench 6-8 inches deep and 6 inches wide along the base of your fence where gaps exist. On sloped ground, the trench follows the slope, creating a continuous 6-8 inch depth.
2. If your hog wire doesn’t extend below ground level, you’ll need to unattach the bottom few inches from fence posts, slide it down into the trench, and reattach. This is easiest if you’re addressing this issue during initial fence installation.
3. For existing fences where the wire can’t be lowered, attach additional wire mesh or chicken wire to the bottom of your hog wire, extending it down into the trench.
4. Backfill the trench with removed soil or add gravel for better drainage. Pack it firmly to hold the wire in place.
5. Optional: Before backfilling, add landscape staples horizontally across the buried wire to anchor it firmly in the trench.

Cost for 40 feet of fence: $0-30 depending on whether you need additional wire mesh or just bury existing wire.

Pros:

• Most secure method against digging animals
• Completely invisible when finished
• Works on any slope angle
• Permanent solution requiring no maintenance
• No aesthetic impact on fence appearance

Cons:

• Extremely labor-intensive digging on slopes
• Difficult or impossible with existing fences unless you add extension wire
• Hard soil or rocky ground makes this method brutal
• Requires detaching and reattaching wire if lowering existing panels

Best for: New fence installations where you can plan for this, properties with digging dogs, maximum security requirements, situations where aesthetic appearance is critical.

I didn’t use this method because my fence was already installed and I wasn’t enthusiastic about digging 40 feet of trench in my rocky soil. But my neighbor used this technique when he installed his hog wire fence, and it looks fantastic with zero visible gaps.

If I were installing hog wire fencing on a slope from scratch, I’d 100% plan for buried wire from the beginning. It’s the cleanest solution aesthetically.

Method 4: Install Gravel or Rock Fill (For Large Gaps and Drainage)

For the most challenging section of my fence—where the slope was steepest and the gap was enormous—I filled the gap with decorative rock. This turned a problem into an intentional design feature.

Materials needed:

• Landscape fabric (3-foot width, $20 per 50-foot roll)
• Landscape staples
• River rock or decorative stone (calculate cubic feet needed)
• Rake

Step-by-step process:

1. Measure the gap area length and estimate average height of the gap. Calculate cubic feet needed: (length × height × width). For my 8-foot section with 8-inch average gap, I needed about 0.4 cubic feet per linear foot.
2. Lay landscape fabric along the base of the fence, extending about 18 inches out from the fence into your yard. Secure it with landscape staples every 2 feet.
3. Create a gradual slope with the rock fill rather than an abrupt vertical wall. Think of it as a gentle ramp from ground level up to the fence bottom.
4. Pour and rake decorative rock over the landscape fabric, filling the gap and creating that gradual slope. I used 2-3 inch river rock that matched the natural aesthetic of my yard.
5. Pack the rocks firmly against the fence bottom so there are no gaps large enough for animals to squeeze through.

Cost for 40 feet of fence: Approximately $45 for landscape fabric plus $65 for river rock = $110 total (this was for my 8-foot problem section, not the full 40 feet).

Pros:

• Turns problem into attractive design feature
• Excellent drainage prevents mud and erosion
• Works for extremely large gaps
• No maintenance required
• Looks intentional and professional
• Prevents digging along fence line

Cons:

• Most expensive solution per linear foot
• Requires purchasing and moving heavy rock
• Changes landscaping appearance significantly
• Not removable without effort if you change your mind

Best for: Large gaps over 8 inches, areas with drainage problems, situations where you want an intentional landscaping feature, permanent aesthetic solutions.

I used this method for one particularly bad 8-foot section where my slope was steepest. The rock fill transformed what looked like a fence installation mistake into an intentional landscape design element. Visitors think it’s a decorative rock border, not a gap-filling hack.

The rocks have stayed in place perfectly for two years, even during heavy rains. The landscape fabric prevents weeds from growing up through the rocks, which is a bonus I didn’t expect.

Choosing the Right Method for Your Situation

After fixing 40 feet of hog wire fence gaps on my sloped yard, here’s how I’d approach it if I were starting over:

For gaps under 3 inches: Cut and bend the wire. Cheapest, fastest, looks good.

For gaps 3-6 inches on moderate slopes: Add rot boards. Best balance of cost, durability, and security.

For gaps over 6 inches or very steep slopes: Either rot boards or rock fill depending on whether you prefer the wood aesthetic or rock landscape feature.

For maximum security against digging animals: Bury the bottom edge or combine buried wire with rot boards.

For new fence installations on slopes: Plan for buried wire from the start. It’s the cleanest solution but only practical during initial installation.

I ended up using a combination approach on my 40-foot slope section:

• 20 feet of cut-and-bent wire (small gaps, $12)
• 12 feet of rot boards (medium gaps, $40)
• 8 feet of rock fill (largest gap, $58)

Total spent: $110 versus the $800 my installer quoted. I saved $690 and learned valuable DIY skills.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake 1: Using chicken wire instead of hog wire for gap filling. Chicken wire is thin and flimsy. It rusts quickly and won’t hold up to animals pushing on it. If you’re adding wire, use the same gauge hog wire or at least sturdy welded wire mesh.

Mistake 2: Not using pressure-treated lumber for rot boards. Regular pine or cedar will rot within 3-5 years in ground contact. Always use pressure-treated wood rated for ground contact.

Mistake 3: Attaching rot boards only to the hog wire instead of fence posts. The hog wire isn’t strong enough to support the board’s weight. Always screw boards directly into posts.

Mistake 4: Skipping landscape fabric under rock fill. Without fabric, soil pushes up through rocks creating mud and weeds. The fabric is critical for long-term maintenance-free results.

Mistake 5: Trying to force one solution for your entire fence. Different gap sizes and slope angles require different solutions. Use the right method for each section rather than forcing a one-size-fits-all approach.

I made Mistake 3 on my first attempt. I attached a rot board to the hog wire with wire ties instead of screwing it to posts. The board sagged within two weeks and looked terrible. I redid it properly with screws into posts and it’s been rock solid ever since.

Maintenance and Long-Term Performance

Two years after completing my hog wire fence gap repairs, here’s how each method is holding up:

Cut and bent wire: Still secure. I’ve replaced a few landscape staples that worked loose but most are still firmly in place.

Rot boards: Perfect condition. No rot, no warping, paint still looks good. These will last 15-20 years easily.

Rock fill: Unchanged. Rocks haven’t shifted, weeds haven’t grown through fabric, looks exactly like installation day.

I inspect my fence gaps twice yearly (spring and fall) as part of general yard maintenance. Takes about 10 minutes to walk the fence line and check that everything is secure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I fix hog wire fence gaps without cutting the wire?

Yes. Adding rot boards or rock fill works without cutting any existing fence wire. Only the cut-and-bend method requires modifying the hog wire panels.

How deep should I bury hog wire to prevent digging?

Six inches minimum, eight inches preferred. Most dogs won’t dig deeper than 6 inches, especially if they encounter buried wire when they start digging.

What’s the best wood to use for rot boards on a fence?

Pressure-treated pine rated for ground contact. Look for wood with a ground contact rating stamp. Cedar and redwood are naturally rot-resistant but more expensive and unnecessary for this application.

Will landscape fabric under rock fill prevent all weeds?

Not 100% but close. You might get occasional weeds that need pulling but it’s 95% effective compared to rock with no fabric where weeds are a constant battle.

Can I paint or stain the rot boards?

Yes. Use exterior paint or solid-color stain. I painted mine black to match my fence posts. Wait at least 6 months after installation to let pressure-treated wood dry and accept paint better.

How much does decorative rock cost?

Varies widely by region and rock type. Expect $40-80 per cubic yard. River rock, pea gravel, and lava rock are common affordable options. Calculate your cubic feet needed and buy accordingly.

Is it normal for fence installers to leave gaps on slopes?

Unfortunately, yes. Many installers use standard techniques regardless of terrain. Professional installers should address gaps during installation, but many don’t unless specifically asked or paid extra.

Can I use dirt instead of rock for gap filling?

Yes, but it will erode over time and need refilling. Rock is permanent while dirt fill requires ongoing maintenance after every heavy rain.

How long does it take to fix fence gaps on a sloped yard?

Depends on method and length. I fixed 40 feet using three different methods over two weekends (about 12-14 hours total labor). A single method on 40 feet would take 6-8 hours for most DIYers.

Will fixing fence gaps affect property value?

A properly secured fence with no gaps looks more finished and professional, which helps property value. Visible gaps or sloppy repairs hurt curb appeal and suggest poor maintenance.

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Hog wire fences on sloped yards create frustrating gaps, but those gaps are fixable without spending hundreds on contractors. My $110 DIY solution secured 40 feet of fence completely and has held up perfectly for two years.

Choose the method that matches your gap size, budget, and aesthetic preferences. For most situations, rot boards offer the best balance of cost, durability, and security. If you’re installing a new fence on a slope, plan for buried wire from the start.

Which method are you using for your fence gaps? Start with the smallest gaps using the cut-and-bend method to build confidence, then tackle larger sections with rot boards or rock fill. Your secure fence is one weekend project away.